
As I await my flight out of Mount Pleasant Airport, Port Stanley, Falkland
Islands, I realize I’ve fallen in love. Antarctica, South Georgia Island, and
most of all, the Captain, staff, and crew of Clipper Cruise Lines’ ship the
"Clipper Adventurer" have won my heart. From my observations over the
past 3 weeks, I’m not the only one. I know the other passengers feel the same
way.
There are many names. Terra Incognita, the Unknown Land. The white continent.
ANTARCTICA.. 
The destination itself is unfathomable. Until you go.
Then the delicate balance between rugged pristine beauty, the remoteness, the
surprising abundance of life, and the harshest unforgiving elements on Earth
becomes clearer. The early explorers, Amundsen, Scott, and Shackleton understood
this. That's what lured them and made them risk, and in the case of Scotts'
party, lose their lives. The people that work on Antarctica, at the bases and in
tourism, feel it. That's what draws them. They call it "going to the
Ice". There are 3 U.S. Antarctic bases. Palmer Station (which we were lucky
enough to visit) is located on the Antarctic Peninsula. McMurdo, is located on
the coast of the Ross Ice Shelf. Also known to the Antarctic community as "Mactown",
the people that work there are called "Coasties". Then there is the
epitome of remote. Amundsen-Scott South Pole station. 
The people that live and
work there are called "Polies". It takes a special type of person to
brave the conditions Antarctica offers. The coldest temperature reading known to
man (-128.13 F) was taken in 1983 at the Russian station,Vostok, located on the
Polar Plateau. That reading did not include "wind chill".
The abundance of life is diverse. Penguins, seals, and whales are the main
species that can be seen. There are at least 7 types of penguins, 4 types of
seals, and 5 types of whales. The most amazing life is what you can't see. We
were fortunate enough to have Rick Price, a freelance wildlife cameraman who has
done specials for the Dicovery Channel "Life in the Freezer",
on board with us. Rick was a Commander of a British Antarctic base and also a
marine diver. He brought slides he's taken on his
numerous dives under the Ice. The crystal clarity of the water, and the
diversity of marine life is astounding. 
There are fish that have a type of
"antifreeze" that allow them to live in the coldest water on earth.
Some of the other forms of marine life can only be found in Antarctic waters.
The colors of some of these creatures is incredibly vibrant. If you ever get the
chance to watch any documentary on Antarctica, I suggest you do it. It's
educational and truly amazing.
For me, Antarctica holds a special place in my heart. The feeling of freedom
and adventure is enticing. Literally, this is the last place on earth. No
phones, no time clocks, no bureaucratic nonsense. Antarctica has no government.
The Antarctic Treaty is the only law that's there. It covers mainly the
environment and is ratified by many countries. 
You can find a plethora of
information on the web on numerous sites if you type in "Antarctica"
or "Antarctic Treaty".
South Georgia Island is an Antarctic island and a real
treasure.
Unfortunately, it was most well known for it's whaling and sealing days.
Thankfully, the seals have returned. I was lucky enough to have a "close
encounter of the special kind" with a baby elephant seal. She was 300
pounds, and 3 months old. The expedition staff suggested quite often to just sit
down and let the wildlife come to you. My husband Bill and I did, and in Golds'
Bay, we were blessed that this precious baby trusted us and was inquisitive
enough to come over and visit. (Regretably, the sealers of old took advantage of
that fact.) She flopped up onto the beach, and came over to see who these
strange "seals" in red parkas were. 
I laid down on my stomach on the
black sand, and she got right in my face, put her adorable snout up to my
forehead, and snorted a "hello". Bill put his hand out to her, and she
nuzzled it and tried to see if it was "mom". Then she decided that she
wanted to check out the rubberized duffle bags with the life vests in them. She
flopped on top of them, and rooted around to see what was up with these odd
things. That was truly one of the most amazing moments in my life. To come so
close to nature in such a way brought me to tears. It was indescribable. My
heart has been touched forever.

Captain Philipp Dieckmann, the
Expedition staff, and the crew of the Clipper
Adventurer are, in my opinion, the best in the business. Julio Preller
(expedition leader), Rick Price (the mammal guy), Simon Cook (the bird guy),
professors David and Dorinda Dallmeyer (geologist, and historian and
environmental law, respectively), Brad Rhees (zodiac driver), Rene Preller
(zodiac driver), Mick (the naturalist), Sharon (the Cruise director), Samantha
(the Purser), Louis (the hotel manager), Gary, Tony, Eddie, Rosewitha, Linda,
and sweet Arth (the bartender). It sounds like the cast of "The Love
Boat". Arth would see me coming down the hall and would have a glass with
ice and a can of Ginger Ale ready for me. Even if I hadn't thought about having
anything to drink, 
I accepted it because I realized that he was attentive enough
to remember what I (along with the other 57 passengers) preferred, and the
surprising fact that Antarctica is a desert, therefore, you have to stay
hydrated. The rest of the crew behind the scenes, the dining room staff, the
housekeeping staff, and engine room staff, are just as special. Everyone goes
out of their way to make you feel welcome and comfortable. I feel as though they
are all friends now. My appreciation and heartfelt best wishes go out to each
and every one of them. I highly advise anyone, if you have the chance to go to
this hauntingly beautiful, last place on earth, DO IT! It will stir your heart,
and make you appreciate all who have come before you.
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