Florida Keys and Key West
by Gary Mills - September 2003

Key West, with it’s rich history of smugglers, pirates, treasure hunters and a myriad of other notorious people, lies at the southernmost tip of the United States…only 90 miles across the ocean from Cuba. You can get there by plane, by cruise ship, or take the drive out of Miami down through the Keys. The latter is my choice as you see so much more.

 Leaving the Miami Airport, in a rented convertible, you take the Florida Turnpike South which drops you off on the US 1….the only road into the Keys and Key West. As you head down US 1and into the Keys you will see The Last Chance Bar on the right, that’s where you enter Monroe County and the Keys begin.

  A little further on you will see a turn off to the left for Card Sound….go ahead and take it…eventually it will bring you back to US 1, but the extra drive is worth it. High Australian Pine trees line the 2-lane road providing lots of shade from the sun shining down on your heads, as you drive for miles seeing nothing but an occasional passing car and hawks flying overhead. Such peace and quiet.

 Then the scenery changes to Mangrove trees with a channel of clear water running parallel with the road. Around a corner you come upon a small settlement of houseboats and wooden houses and then you see Alabama Jacks. It is a 2 level boat, the bottom being a flat deck and the upper level set up with tables looking out over the waters of Card Sound. If you pass this way on a weekend afternoon you will here the music before you see the boat. Then you’ll see all the dancers on the bottom deck, the jet skis in the channel, the speedboats pulling up to dock and wooden tables and benches on the land full of people of all ages…locals, tourists, families and kids. Stop and try some of the renowned fresh fish sandwiches or just have a cold beer and you may be treated to a clogging demonstration by the local talent. You can even join in and try your hand at it, or rather your feet…there’s always a friendly clogger to help with your footwork !!

 Later press on down the road over Card Sound Bridge spanning the clear blue waters. Then take a left turn down to the Reef Club, a very exclusive club, hotel and restaurant. You never know what famous personality you may run into. One thing you will see are the Dolphins swimming in their own pool area at the entrance. They will play and jump for you, putting on an impromptu show because they love it. You may have one swim up so close you can touch it.  

Now it’s time to follow the road as it winds through more Mangroves and drops you back on US 1 heading south through the Keys. There are some great places to eat as you head south…The Green Turtle Inn where you can try your first taste of turtle steak, or the Chesapeake with it’s lighthouse, or Marker 88 gourmet restaurant and many more serving the fresh fish catch of the day…and in the Keys it’s really fresh!!  

Along the way you will pass the old boat used by Humphrey Bogart in the movie “The African Queen”. If you scuba or snorkel you’ll want to stop at the Pennecamp State Park. There old sunken wrecks have formed reefs where millions of fish swim and the coral has made it’s home. Don’t be tempted to take some coral home with you…that is frowned upon (not to mention illegal). Instead visit the Shell Factory and pick out some beautiful Conch shells for your souvenirs…put them to your ear and listen to the sounds of the sea. As you drive you will see the flowering Bougainvillea in all it’s beautiful colors…fuschia, pink, white, peach and amazing colors you can’t even put a name to. 

As you continue further you will come to the Holiday Isle complex of a high rise hotel, a fleet of fishing boats and Cocomo’s..an outside bar and restaurant made famous by the Beach Boy’s song of the same name. Recall the words…’bodies in the sand’ and you will see them dancing in the sand to the local group playing island music. Look around and there’s the signpost that points the way to Jamaica, Aruba and all the other tropical islands. Turn around more and you see the fishermen weighing their catches, and tourists holding up huge fish they just caught while out on one of the many day boats. Sport fishing abounds in the Keys and the fish are spectacular…… Sailfish, Marlins, Tarpon and a myriad other game fish species. What you catch can be stuffed for display or dressed to eat at dinner that night…many of the local restaurants will cook your own fish for you. Just imagine how good that will taste. If the mood strikes you, spend the night in one of the many small intimate motels right on the edge of the Gulf. Enjoy the peace, the sea breeze, the moonlight and watch the stars in a pollution free sky. Then wake up refreshed the next morning to continue your journey. 

Head over the 7 Mile Bridge above the blue waters where the Atlantic meets the Gulf….watch the boats speeding by, the fish jumping and enjoy the warm sun on your head as you travel on with the top down. Before you know it you are in Key West. 

Head straight into Old Town, you can’t miss it, and check in at The Pier House hotel and get ready to be spoiled. Your room will be decorated in beautiful Caribbean style and colors…no stuffy hotel furniture here but extra long, comfy chasse lounges to kick back in as the ceiling fans turn lazily overhead. Your bathroom will have lattice shutters that open into the living room so you can watch TV as you soak…or just dream as you sip an exotic drink. Take a stroll out to the open air restaurant and watch the fish swim below and underneath the deck. Look to the right and watch the activity on the small hotel beach as the water laps slowly at the sand. Further over, around the front of one of the banks of rooms you can see lounge chairs on a rocky area for sun worshippers. Here you can go ‘au natural’ , or not, just as you please. Key West is know for it’s laissez-faire attitude ….it is home to both gay and lesbian communities, tourists and locals alike…and everyone does their own thing. 

Ernest Hemingway lived here and wrote some of his great works while enjoying this live and let live attitude. His home is now a museum open for visitors to drop in. Talking of Hemingway, step back in time and visit Sloppy Joe’s – his favorite bar and hang-out on Duval Street. It is open on both sides to the streets so you can sit at the bar, enjoy a cool one in it’s dusky depths, and watch the world go by outside. 

Explore up and down Duval Street’s many shops, sit on a wall and do some people watching, visit the Turtle Kraals with it’s many young and old turtles. In Mallory Square buy a sponge from the sea to take home for your next bath. Visit the Key West Fabric store on Greene Street where you’ll find the most beautiful tropical print fabrics. Check next door at the Kew West Perfumery and smell the perfumes made with limes, magnolias, jasmine and other smells uniquely Key West. Visit the Mel Fisher Sunken Treasure Museum and gaze in awe at all the treasure he has pulled from the Spanish galleon wrecks. 

No-one can visit Key West without thinking of Jimmy Buffet and his famous song ‘Margaritaville’….which should be the town’s national anthem!!! Stroll down Duval Street some more and you will see his own restaurant aptly named the Margaritaville Café…what else!!!

To get a sense of the history of this small island take the Conch Train tour …the conductor is very well informed. You’ll get to see the historic houses, the old Navy base, and a photo-op at the marker for ‘The Southern most Point in the U.S.’ As the sun begins to set head to Mallory Docks…it is a Key West tradition to celebrate sunset on the docks. There you will find street entertainers, jugglers, musicians, vendors, all taking time to watch the golden red sun drop below the horizon of the blue water.

After dark the streets come alive…the many clubs are open-sided with their music pouring out into the night air. As you navigate the sidewalk you can stop and watch the dancers doing the latest craze or just their own thing, and you can join in at your leisure.

After enjoying your evening walk amid the Magnolia trees, night-blooming jasmine and the Bougainvillea, head back to the Pier House. Sit on the dock of the restaurant and order some fresh fish then sit back, relax and enjoy your dinner. Take an after dinner stroll on the beach then head for your room and a wonderful night’s sleep, dreaming of those smugglers, pirates and what to explore tomorrow.

    Trips can be arranged by West University Travel, 3622 University Blvd, Houston, TX 77005. 713-665-4767. Ask for Gary Mills.